Costume: Head of Department

This document details some of the work generally performed by the Head of Costume on major shows. It is not a definitive document as the duties of the Head of Costume will always be influenced by the needs of the production and the assigned crew.

Job description

Responsible for the sourcing, construction and maintenance of all costume pieces. Specific duties include:

Taking measurements or obtaining clothing sizes of the performers.
Sourcing, purchasing or making costumes as required.
Managing the costume crew.
Conducting costume fittings and the costume parade.
Organising the costumes for performances.
Assisting with application of makeup, hair styling, and quick changes as necessary for the performances.
Washing the costumes and carrying out any necessary maintenance and repairs during the season.
Bumping out the costumes and storing them appropriately, after the season.

As soon as you are assigned to a production

Get a copy of the script and read it.
Meet with the costume designer to obtain working documents such as costume lists, drawings, reference images, and fabric swatches. Determine if any costumes will need to be hired or specially made, both of which can take time and money. Determine if any special make-up or hairstyling will be required, and how this may impact the budget.
Discuss with the stage manager if there are any costumes that are required in rehearsals and obtain these immediately. Items frequently required in rehearsal are long skirts or special shoes.
With the costume designer, stage manager and production manager, set dates for rehearsal costumes, fittings and costume parades.

The next step (as soon as possible)

Create a costume list, detailing every costume item required, including shoes and accessories. Note down who wears each item, in what scenes it is worn, and any notable features about it.
Obtain measurements and clothing and shoe sizes from the performers.
Check the Hayman’s costume store. Hang any required costume items on the rack in the female change room, clearly marked with the production’s name. Place shoes below the rack, clearly labelled.
Ask the performers if they have any items in their own wardrobes that they are willing to wear for the performance, which fit with the design. This may be the best way to obtain basic or contemporary items. Please note that performers may not be willing to use their own items in a show, and this should be respected. Keep a record of any borrowed items so they can be promptly returned.
Once you have checked all sources of existing or borrowed costumes, organise any items to be hired or made. Make sure to do this with as much lead-in time as possible.
Purchase any remaining items.
Organise and conduct fittings as required.

For each rehearsal session

If you bring in a rehearsal costume, ensure the stage manager knows about it so it can be used in rehearsals.
Read the stage manager’s rehearsal report to check for any relevant information, and respond to it.

Two to three weeks prior to first performance

Attend any full runs of the show in rehearsal, to see how your costumes will work. Make any necessary changes.
Create a costume plot (if the costume designer has not done so already), detailing what costume items are worn in each scene by each character. Pay particular attention to any quick changes and work out a plan for them.
Keep sourcing any costumes needed, including accessories and other “finishing touches.”

Two weeks prior to first performance

A costume parade (or several) will be scheduled around this time. During a costume parade, each performer models their full costume/s, including shoes, accessories, hairstyle and make-up. The director, stage manager, and costume designer will be present, and you should be with them to receive any feedback. You should organise the performers to dress and style themselves, or have additional crew working with them if necessary.
Take note of any feedback given during the costume parade, and act upon it.

One week prior to first performance (production week)

Bump in the costumes.
Create and display lists or photos for each performer, to indicate what costume items are worn in each scene, and make-up and hair styling.
Attend all technical and dress rehearsals, and make any last minute changes. If you will be show crew, you may be required to do things backstage, such as helping with quick changes.
Determine how frequently costumes need to be laundered and create a plan for that. As a courtesy, let the performers know when their costumes will be laundered.

For each performance

If you are show crew, arrive at the specified call time and preset all the costumes, which may include ironing. Use a checklist to ensure that everything is preset correctly. If you are not show crew, you may have designated this work to another crew member. Ensure that person knows exactly what to do and is using a checklist.
Carry out any rehearsed backstage work.
After each performance, ensure the costumes are stored appropriately (performers must hang their own items or place them in a laundry basket).
Do any required washing or repairs, making sure items will be dry for the next performance.

After the season (bump out)

Wash, dry and iron all items. Some items may require dry cleaning.
Store all items appropriately, or return them to where they were borrowed.
Production notes archived for future reference
Evaluations and feedback